As you travel southwards, the landscape of Campania changes, leaving behind the lemon terraces and cliffs, and arriving at a coastal plain, with a backdrop of the mountainous Cilento National Park. Here, the best mozzarella in the world is made – mozzarella di bufala. Buffalo graze lazily in the sun and wallow in their muddy paddocks. They are lovely creatures. Close up, curiosity gets the better of them and they approach to investigate visitors. In the distance, they add a somewhat incongruous note to the scenery – a glimpse of India in Southern Italy, perhaps.

Paestum is in this area and is famous for its ancient Greek site. The three golden-stoned temples are amongst the best preserved in Europe and have a magical quality, whatever time of day or evening you choose to visit them. The beaches nearby are long and sandy and the sea is inviting. About 48km from Amalfi and 52km from Pompei, this is a good base for sightseeing.

Soon, the flat grasslands give way to hills, which gently roll towards Castellabate and the Cilento coast. With some of the best beaches in Italy, all largely undiscovered by the British, the coastline is spectacular, with turquoise, crystal sea and long, sandy beaches.

Vast slopes of silvery-leaved olive trees, intensely green, luxuriant vegetation, and the blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea, provide the setting for a triptych of little places. The mediaeval town of Castellabate sits on a hill, and has an interesting historical centre and 10th century basilica. Santa Maria di Castellabate and San Marco di Castellabate are only a few kilometres apart, on the coast. Both have lively, working harbours and are popular with Italian tourists, especially in the height of summer and at weekends, but are sleepier at other times.

Turning inland, the Cilento displays its full glory. Pretty countryside, interesting little towns and a traditional way of life are part of the rural idyll, waiting to be discovered. Rarely very far from the sea, the land is wild and thickly-wooded. Often with a twinkling azure backdrop, the land has olives and chestnuts one minute, and is well-tended and farmed, the next.

In the southern tip of Campania is Palinuro, a fishing town and resort, which has a pretty harbour and a spectacular coastline. About 130km south of Salerno, it has a dual personality, like many places along this coast, and the time of year dictates how bustling or tranquil it will be. Legend has it that Aenaes’ helmsman, Palinurus, fell overboard here and drowned, or else was killed by savage locals. We think that he took one look at this glorious slice of nature and decided to stay!

The Cape of Palinuro is about 2km long and is a massive mountain ridge of limestone, jutting out, like a huge whale, basking in the sea. The sheer mass of it is awesome. Perpendicular cliffs drop to the foaming sea, far below. Inlets and rocky headlands shelter little coves and mysterious caves. To the north and south of the Cape, the Cilento coast stretches out, in gentle curves of golden sandy beaches.

South Campania’s natural beauty, mild climate and places of historical interest make it a good choice for any trip to Italy. The Certosa of Padula is an important and majestic charterhouse, which should be part of any itinerary. At the recently excavated site of Velia, there is the only example of a Greek arch in Magna Graecia. Acciaroli and other harbours hug the coast and crave exploration. Top all that off with a cuisine, which is genuine and traditional - the freshest of fish, by the coast, and meat, further inland – and you have a great holiday in store.