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The
second largest island in the Mediterranean and farthest
from the mainland, Sardinia has a personality and atmosphere
all of its own. The Sards still proudly retain their
customs and language, and place names testify to their
determination to remain firstly Sardinian and secondly
Italian. An island of secrets, Sardinia has so much
for the traveller to discover. You will stumble upon
the famous prehistoric towers and settlements, called
“nuraghi”. These are mysterious, built of stone and
they are uniquely Sardinian. Of the 30,000 originally
built, only 7,000 remain and they scatter the landscape.
In
the south, Nora has remains of a Punic-Roman city and
white sandy beaches. Along the coast, the landscape
becomes unspoilt and rugged. Oristano and the National
Park of the Sinis Peninsular, on the west, are flatter,
and with a wild sort of beauty, salt-water lagoons,
flamingos, white quartz beaches and rare flora - Sardinia's
hidden secret.
Inland,
little villages, like Oliena, which still retain the
old Sard traditions and crafts, are surrounded by spectacular
mountain scenery; steep-sided hills, caverns and gorges;
lakes, more reminiscent of Scotland .
On
the east, in the Gennargentu and Sarrabus regions, the
mountains drop steeply to the sea. There are little
bays and hidden coves, many only reachable by boat.
Cala Gonone is a charming resort. Arbatax is a somewhat
hidden corner, with a small town and working harbour.
With pinewood-backed coastline, renowned for its golden
sands and crystal clear water, the Costa Rei and Villasimius
are stunning.
Just
south of Olbia, sandy bays and transparent, aquamarine
waters are dominated by the islands of Molara and Tavolara.
Beautiful headlands look down on one of the most stunning
spots on the Mediterranean, a turquoise, sweeping bay,
backed by yellow broom-covered hillsides – just like
a Hawaiian atoll or lagoon.
Just
north of Olbia, the resort of Golfo Aranci has a delightful
little port, where fishermen still work to this day,
and further north still is the famous Costa Smeralda,
with the chic port of Porto Cervo, at its heart. A rich
man's invention, nothing can prepare you for the somewhat
surreal qualities of parts of this area. Some places
are very manmade, and yet, undeniably beautiful, not
overdeveloped, and possibly everyone's picture postcard
ideal of a tasteful holiday destination, with fabulous
beaches, yachting marinas, intriguing rock formations
and dense greenery. This area has a designer label and
the price tag to go with it, but no visit to Sardinia
would be quite complete without it. Just beyond is the
resort of Baia Sardinia and towards the northern tip
of the island you will find the very real port of Palau,
a stepping stone to the Maddalena archipelago, which
stretches enticingly towards the island of Corsica.
Alghero,
in the north-west, was founded by the Arabs and later
controlled by the Aragonese. With a strong Spanish flavour
and staunchly proud of its Catalan links, this captivating
walled town and port still has most of its fortifications
intact and its huge towers, with their monumental proportions,
dominate the narrow, cobbled streets. This is a delightfully
picturesque old town, where people live all year round
and life is not just geared to the tourist season. Alghero
has lovely, sandy beaches on both sides. Go north towards
the craggy outcrop of Capo Caccia, or journey down the
impressive coastal road to the old town of Bosa, and
you will find a varied landscape, dotted with many unspoilt
beaches.
A mixture
of Italian and traditionally Sardinian, the food is truly
a feast of delights. Some of the best fish you will ever
eat; extremely tasty meats; fresh and varied vegetables
and fruit; wonderful cheeses and breads; the moreish,
typically Sard pastries and desserts, all complemented
by the excellent (and cheap) local wines, have to make
the food one reason alone for going to Sardinia!
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