Puglia,
or Apulia as it is sometimes known, is
a land of extraordinary colours and wonderful variety
- an undulating plateau of rich, red earth, dark green
pine-forested hillsides, silvery green olive trees and
lush vineyards; sparkling white labyrinths of towns'
historic centres, which seem to glisten in the sun;
milky white mediaeval centres with their tangles of
cobbled streets and alleyways; grey and natural hues
of Baroque churches; dustings of pink on villa walls;
and all against a backdrop of deep, deep blue Mediterranean
sea and sky.
The
lush Itria Valley, a UNESCO
World
Heritage Site, has fairy-tale trulli
houses, scattered in picturesque disorder around the
countryside. These traditional houses, unique to the
area, are built of dry stone with thick solid walls
and conical roofs. Don't expect one or two – they are
everywhere and you will never have seen anything quite
like it.
The gracious,
fortified masserie
are farmhouses, centuries
old and usually surrounded by thousands of ancient olive
trees. Many masserie
have been restored to offer accommodation, giving special,
typically Pugliese hospitality.
Pugliese towns
are gems of architectural and historical interest –
Romanesque, Baroque, Byzantine, churches, cathedrals,
castles, towers. They have colourful markets and interesting
shops. Spot the curious mixture of modern and old rural
life – meander through narrow, ancient streets, and
suddenly come upon a chic little bar or restaurant,
incongruous in one way, and yet in another, totally
at home amongst Baroque churches – typically Italian!
Hugging a
hill, above the Itria Valley, is Cisternino. About 15km
from the sea and 400m above sea level, it is a vision
of the Near East, with its mediaeval centre of sparkling
white, sun-drenched houses and narrow traffic-free streets,
which meander through to the central square. Ostuni,
the “white” town, perches like a wedding cake, on a
hill. In Locorotondo, flowers explode from pretty balconies.
Martina Franca is an elegant and beautiful Baroque town.
Fasano has a characterful,
historic centre. Noci,
in Puglia's rural heartland, is fascinating and a delight
to wander around. Savelletri is a busy fishing village.
Monopoli, right on the coast, is a beautiful,
old, walled town with an historic port
Further south, in
a very different landscape, but still with the ever-present
olive trees, the famous Salento has acres of vineyards.
Lecce, known as “the Florence of the South”, bursts
with Baroque; Avetrana, with its mediaeval castle, is
an interesting town to visit; and the sea-side town
of Gallipoli has a quaint harbour, with a real tangle
of narrow streets. On the very tip of the heel, there
is Santa Maria di Leuca, a little resort, where you
can dip one foot in the sparkling, crystal waters of
the Adriatic and the other in the Ionian.
North of
the Itria Valley, Conversano, with its splendid cathedral
and magnificently imposing castle, is a good base for
exploring the area around Bari. The Gargano Promontory's
ancient forest is particularly undiscovered and beautiful,
and the coast is spectacular. Vieste and Peschici are
delightful and picturesque towns, which cling to the
coast and which are busy and bustling, in the height
of summer.
Many of
the towns have splendid views from their commanding
positions, over fertile valleys, towards the sparkling
azure Adriatic. This coastline has long stretches of
golden, sandy beaches, dunes and wonderfully inviting
sea. The Ionian, also within easy striking distance,
is just as magnificent.
The food
and wine in Puglia
are superb.
Everything you eat will be dictated by the seasons,
not the supermarkets. Farmers laugh when you ask whether
their cultivation is organic. “Isn't everything?” they
smile knowingly. After all, many are still farming as
their forefathers did and organic production is no new
idea to them. Restaurants buy produce and ingredients
locally, so you savour the same ethos in the Pugliese
cuisine. The pace of life is slow, the food is delicious
and the people are kind and gentle. What more could
you want?
For something
authentic and very Italian, well away from British tourism;
for something charming and utterly different - an unforgettable
and unique experience - then Puglia is the region to
choose.
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