The
volcanic island of Ischia is one of the most beautiful
islands in the Mediterranean. Only about an hour, by
ferry or hydrofoil, from Naples’ port, it is very accessible
and can easily be combined with accommodation on mainland
Italy. In fact, it is a perfect ingredient for travellers,
who enjoy two-centre holidays, as well as those, who
relish a relaxing stay in one place.
Ischia
is a real mix of extraordinary landscapes. There are
thermal waters, natural springs, goldmines, warm sea,
sandy beaches & forested hillsides – it offers something
for everyone. Monte Epomeo, the extinct volcano, which
rises to over 780m, dominates the centre of the island,
on its western side. Pinewoods cover a huge part of
the island, and these create the perfect place for those
who enjoy walking and wildlife. There are several thermal
parks, where you can have mineral mud treatments. All
are reputed to have therapeutic qualities – it’s no
wonder Ischia is known as ‘the island of eternal youth’.
The island is also famous for its beautiful gardens.
The English composer, William Walton, moved to Ischia,
with his wife in 1949 and created the Mortella Gardens,
an oasis of calm, away from his otherwise hectic life.
With over 1,000 exotic and rare plants, Lady Walton
ardently runs the gardens, to this day. Her passion
for them certainly shows, as, over the years, they have
become a famous and essential part of any traveller’s
itinerary, to the island. The island’s coastline is
equally varied, with golden sandy beaches, rugged cliffs
and craggy outcrops, all with the sea’s natural backdrop
of changing blues and aquamarines.
Ischia
is now coming into its own. For years, it was considered
the poor relation to Capri, which is also in the Bay
of Naples, and attracts tourists by the bucket-load,
setting its prices accordingly. Nowadays, travellers
are appreciating Ischia’s more low-key, reasonably priced
attitude to tourism. Of course, visit Capri, on a day
trip, but then return to Ischia, where many parts of
the island have not been prettied up, just for tourists,
and where there is still a sense of locals, living ordinary
daily lives, not totally dependent on tourism. We find
this particularly appealing. In fact, if you travel
inland, away from the more popular, coastal parts, you
will come across areas that are seemingly untouched
by tourism and modern life. There are ancient, hilltop
villages; castles and towers, which adorn the countryside;
gatherings of old men in squares, enjoying the sun and
the fresh breeze; farmers, who trundle along in their
three-wheeled pick-up trucks, weighed down with lemons.
Ischia has an authentic charm, and in many ways, is
unaffected, compared to the more famous resorts, in
the region.
We particularly like Lacco Ameno,
a small, coastal town, in the north of the island, with
a little beach and harbour. The streets meander through
the old part of the town, where locals gather in the
evenings to browse in the classy little shops, ‘passeggiata’,
or dine in one of the lovely restaurants.
We also love Sant’Angelo, a quieter,
smaller town, really little more than a fishing village
and little resort, in the south – its narrow, traffic-free
streets, are full of chic shops and bars and the little
harbour and the beach are delightful. This is the place,
where the “cognoscenti” choose to go and it feels very
Italian.
Most of the other towns on Ischia
have much to recommend them, including Ischia Port and
Ponte. Not just an island “hopping-off” point for ferries
and hydrofoils, it is also buzzing with life and interesting
– well worth taking the time to visit and explore. Its
unique harbour was once an inland lake, in an extinct
volcanic crater. The site of the impressive Castello
Aragonese, on its rocky outcrop, was originally fortified
by Greeks from Siracusa, in Sicily, in the fifth century,
and has since been refuge against invaders and volcanic
eruption alike. It is full of intriguing things to see
and discover.
All in all, we love Ischia and
its atmosphere. We think that a visit is a must, during
one’s lifetime, so try it!
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